Chizvarwa chitsva cheveggie burgers chine chinangwa chekutsiva iyo yepakutanga nenyama yenhema kana miriwo mitsva. Kuti tione kuti vanoita zvakanaka sei, takamboravira vamwe vatanhatu vaikwikwidza. NaJulia Moskin.

Mumakore maviri chete, tekinoroji yechikafu yakafambisa vatengi kubva mukubhurawuza kwewan "veggie patties" munzira yakaomeswa nechando kuti vasarudze "mabhegi ane chirimwa" anotengeswa padivi penyama yemombe.
Kuseri kwezvibodzwa zvesupermarket, hondo huru dziri kurwiwa: Vagadziri venyama vari kumhan'arira kuti mazwi ekuti "nyama" uye "burger" angori pazvigadzirwa zvavo. Vagadziri vedzimwe nzira dzenyama senge Beyond Meat uye Impossible Foods vari kurwira kutora musika wepasi rose-wechikafu, sevatambi vakuru vakaita saTyson naPerdue vanopinda mumakwikwi. Masayendisiti ezvezvakatipoteredza uye ezvechikafu ari kusimbirira kuti tidye zvirimwa zvakawanda uye zvishoma zvakagadzikiswa. Vazhinji vanodya miriwo nemavegan vanoti donzvo nderekusiya tsika yekudya nyama, kwete kuidyisa nevanobereka.
"Ndichiri kuda kudya chimwe chinhu chisina kukura," akadaro Isa Chandra Moskowitz, shefu paresitorendi yevegan Modern Love muOmaha, uko burger yake ndiyo ndiro inonyanya kufarirwa pane menyu. "Asi zviri nani kuti vanhu uye nepasi vadye imwe yeaya maburger pane nyama mazuva ese, kana zviri izvo zvavachaita."
Iyo nyowani yefiriji-kesi "nyama" zvigadzirwa zvinotove chimwe chezvikamu zviri kukurumidza kukura zveindasitiri yechikafu.
Mamwe anodada epamusoro-tekinoroji, akaunganidzwa kubva muhuwandu hwemasitachi, mafuta, munyu, zvinotapira uye mapuroteni ekugadzira umami-rich. Izvo zvinogoneka nehunyanzvi hutsva hwekuti, semuenzaniso, kurova kokonati mafuta uye cocoa bhata mumatumbu madiki emafuta machena anopa iyo Beyond Burger chimiro chemarbled chenyama yemombe.
Mamwe akareruka akareruka, akavakirwa pazviyo nemiriwo, uye reverse-engineered nemidziyo yakaita seyeast inobviswa uye mumera webhari kuti ive crustier, browner uye juicier kupfuura avo vakaomeswa veggie-burger vakatangira. (Vamwe vatengi vari kufuratira izvo zvakajairika zvigadzirwa, kwete nekuda kwekuravira chete, asi nekuti zvinowanzogadzirwa nezvinogadzirwa zvakanyanya.)
Asi vose vatsva vanoita sei patafura?
Mutsoropodzi weRestaurant yeTimes Pete Wells, munyori wedu wekubika Melissa Clark neni takarongedza marudzi ese evegan burgers matsva kuti aravire asingaoni mhando nhanhatu dzenyika. Kunyangwe vanhu vazhinji vakatoravira mabhaga aya mumaresitorendi, isu taida kudzokorora chiitiko chemubiki wepamba. (Nechinangwa ichocho, ini naMelissa takasungirira vanasikana vedu: mukomana wangu ane makore 12 emurimi uye ane makore 11 okukura burger aficionado.)
Burger yega yega yakapiswa ne teaspoon yemafuta ecanola mune inopisa skillet, uye yakashandiswa mubhandi rembatatisi. Isu takatanga tavaravira zviri pachena, tobva tatakurwa neatinoda pakati pemhando yepamusoro: ketchup, mustard, mayonnaise, pickles uye American cheese. Heino mibairo, pachiyero chekuyera chenyeredzi imwe kusvika kushanu.
1. Impossible Burger
★★★★½
Maker Impossible Foods, Redwood Guta, Calif.
Sirogani “Yakagadzirwa Nemiti Yevanhu Vanoda Nyama”
Kutengesa mapoinzi Vegan, gluten-isina.
Mutengo $8.99 ye12-ounce package.

Kuravira manotsi "Yakanyanya kufanana nebhega yemombe kusvika kure," yaive chinyorwa changu chekutanga kunyorwa. Wese munhu akafarira mipendero yaro, uye Pete akacherechedza "brawny flavour". Mwanasikana wangu akanga agutsikana kuti yakanga iri nyama yemombe chaiyo, akasvevedzera kuti ativhiringe. Imwe chete yevatanhatu vanopikisa iyo inosanganisira genetically modified ingredients, Impossible Burger ine musanganiswa (soy leghemoglobin) yakagadzirwa uye inogadzirwa nekambani kubva mumiti hemoglobins; Iyo inonyatso dhizainidza "yeropa" kutarisa uye kuravira kweiyo isingawanzo burger. Melissa akazviona "zvakapiswa nenzira yakanaka," asi, semabhaga mazhinji ezvirimwa, zvakawoma tisati tapedza kudya.
Zvisungo: Mvura, soy protein concentrate, kokonati mafuta, mafuta ezuva, zvinonaka zvechisikigo, 2 muzana kana zvishoma zve: mapuroteni embatatisi, methylcellulose, yeast extract, cultured dextrose, food starch-modified, soy leghemoglobin, munyu, soy protein isolate, yakasanganiswa tocopherols (vitamin E), zinc gluminecornate, vitamin C hydrochloride (vitamini C). niacin, pyridoxine hydrochloride (vhitamini B6), riboflavin (vitamini B2), vhitamini B12.
2. Beyond Burger
★★★★
Mugadziri Kupfuura Nyama, El Segundo, Calif.
Slogan "Enda Mhiri"
Kutengesa mapoinzi Vegan, gluten-isina, soy-isina, isiri-GMO
Mutengo $5.99 wemaonzi mana-patties.

Kuravira manotsi The Beyond Burger yakanga “ine muto ine muto unogutsa,” sekutaura kwaMelissa, uyo akarumbidzawo “kutenderera kwayo, ine umami yakawanda.” Mwanasikana wake akaziva kunhuhwirira kwakashata asi kuchifadza kupfungaira, kunoyeuchidza mbatatisi-yakanhuhwirira machipisi. Ndaifarira magadzirirwo ayo: crumbly asi isina kuoma, sezvinofanira kuita burger. Iyi burger ndiyo yainyanya kuoneka yakafanana neyakagadzirwa nenyama yemombe, yakasanganiswa nemafuta machena (yakagadzirwa nekokonati mafuta uye cocoa butter) uye ichibuda muto mutsvuku, kubva kubhiti. Pamusoro pezvese, Pete akati, chiitiko che "beefy chaiyo".
Zvisungo: Mvura, pea protein isolate, expeller-pressed canola oil, yakanatswa kokonati mafuta, mupunga protein, natural flavour, cocoa butter, mung bean protein, methylcellulose, mbatatisi starch, apuro extract, munyu, potassium chloride, vhiniga, lemon juice concentrate, sunflower lecithin, pomegranate muto wemuchero wepomegranate.
3. Lightlife Burger
★★★
Mugadziri Lightlife/Greenleaf Foods, Toronto
Sirogani inoti “Zvokudya Zvinopenya”
Kutengesa mapoinzi Vegan, gluten-isina, soy-isina, isiri-GMO
Mutengo $5.99 wemaonzi mana-patties.

Kuravira manotsi "Anodziya uye anonhuhwirira" ane "kunze kwekunze" sekureva kwaMelissa, burger yeLightlife chipo chitsva kubva kukambani yanga ichigadzira maburger uye dzimwe nyama dzinotsiva tempeh (yakaviriswa soya chigadzirwa chine kusimba kwemavara kupfuura tofu) kwemakumi emakore. Ndosaka yakaroverera iyo "yakasimba uye inotsenga mameseji" yandakawana zvishoma, asi "zvisina kushata kupfuura mazhinji echikafu burgers." "Zvakanaka kana zvaremerwa" waive mutongo wekupedzisira waPete.
Ingredients: Mvura, pea protein, expeller-pressed canola oil, modified cornstarch, modified cellulose, yeast extract, virgin kokonati mafuta, gungwa munyu, natural flavour, beet powder (kune ruvara), ascorbic acid (kukurudzira kuchengetedza ruvara), kubvisa hanyanisi, upfu hwehanyanisi, hupfu hwegariki.
4. Burger isina kuchekwa
★★★
Mugadziri Pamberi peButcher, San Diego
Slogan "Nyama asi isina Nyama"
Kutengesa mapoinzi Vegan, gluten-isina, isiri-GMO
Mutengo $5.49 yezvina-ounce patties, inowanikwa gare gare gore rino.

Kuravira manotsi Iyo Uncut Burger, yakadanwa nemugadziri kuratidza zvakapesana nekuchekwa kwenyama, yakanyatso kuverengerwa pakati penyama yakanyanya yeboka. Ndakafadzwa nechimiro chayo chakati piriviri, “senge nyama yemombe yakakasharara,” asi Melissa akanzwa kuti yaita kuti burger iparare “semakadhibhokisi akanyorova.” Kuravira kwaiita sekunge "bhakoni" kuna Pete, pamwe nekuda kwe "grill flavour" uye "smoke flavour" yakanyorwa mufomula. (Kune vagadziri vezvokudya, hazvisi chinhu chimwe chete: imwe inotarisirwa kuravira kupisa, imwe yehutsi hwehuni.)
Zvisungo: Mvura, soy protein concentrate, expeller-pressed canola oil, yakanatswa kokonati mafuta, isolated soy protein, methylcellulose, yeast extract (yeast extract, salt, natural flavour), caramel color, natural flavour (yeast extract, maltodextrin, munyu, natural flavors, medium chain triglycerides, acetic smoker, sunflower flavour), mafuta. (maltodextrin, beet juice extract, citric acid), ruvara rutsvuku rwechisikigo (glycerin, beet juice, annatto), citric acid.
5. FieldBurger
★★½
Mugadziri Munda Roast, Seattle
Slogan "Plant-Based Artisanal Meats"
Kutengesa mapoinzi Vegan, soy-isina, isiri-GMO
Mutengo Inenge madhora matanhatu echina 3.25-ounce patties.

Kuravira manotsi Hazvina kunyanya kufanana nenyama, asi zvichiri "zviri nani pane zvechinyakare" zvakaomeswa miriwo patties, mupfungwa dzangu, uye sarudzo yekubvumirana yebhaga yemuriwo yakanaka (panzvimbo pemufananidzo wenyama). Tasters akafarira "zvinomera" zvinyorwa, kuratidzwa kwehanyanisi, celery uye matatu akasiyana ehowa - mutsva, akaomeswa uye akaomeswa - pane zvinyorwa zvemukati. Pakanga paine kumwe kuchena kwekuda mugomba, maererano naPete, asi mukati mekudya (ine gluten) yakanga isingafarirwe. "Pamwe burger iyi ingaite zvirinani pasina bhuni?" akabvunza.
Zvisungo: Yakakosha gorosi gluten, mvura yakasvibiswa, organic expeller-pressed palm fruit oil, bhari, garlic, expeller-pressed safflower oil, hanyanisi, tomato paste, celery, karoti, yakasikwa mbiriso yakasvibirira, onion poda, howa, mumera webhari, gungwa remunyu, zvinonhuwira, carrageenanal serinesamic (muchero weIrish vhiniga, mhiripiri yakasviba, shiitake howa, porcini mushroom poda, yero pizi hupfu.
6. Nyika Inotapira Fresh Veggie Burger
★★½
Mugadziri Zvinotapira Zvepasi Zvikafu, Moss Kudzika, Calif.
Slogan "Inoshamisa Nezvakasikwa, Kuziva Nesarudzo"
Kutengesa mapoinzi Vegan, soy-isina, isiri-GMO
Mutengo Inenge madhora 4.25 kune maviri mana-ounce patties.

Manotsi ekuravira Burger iyi inotengeswa nezvinonaka chete; Ndakasarudza Mediterranean seyakarerekera zvakanyanya. Vatariri vakafarira nhoroondo yakajairika yezvakaziviswa naMelissa "burger kune vanhu vanoda falafel," inogadzirwa zvakanyanya kubva kune chickpeas uye yakazadzwa nehowa uye gluten. (Inonzi "vital wheat gluten" pane zvinyorwa zvezviyo, iyo yakagadziriswa yakagadzirwa yegorosi gluten, inowanzowedzerwa kuchingwa kuti iite kuti ireruke uye inotsenga, uye iyo inonyanya kushandiswa mu seitan.) Burger yakanga isiri nyama, asi ine "nutty, zviyo zvakakangwa" zvinyorwa zvandaifarira kubva mupunga webrown, uye whiffs semipunga ye ginger. Iyi burger mutungamiriri wemusika wenguva refu, uye Sweet Earth ichangobva kuwanikwa neNestlé USA nesimba rayo; iyo kambani ikozvino yave kuunza mutsva wekudyara-nyama anokwikwidza anonzi Awesome Burger.
Zvisungo: Garbanzo bhinzi, howa, yakakosha gorosi gluten, green peas, kare, mvura, bulgur gorosi, bhari, bell mhiripiri, karoti, quinoa, extra-virgin mafuta omuorivhi, red onion, celery, mhodzi yeflakisi, cilantro, garlic, mbiriso inovaka muviri, granulated garlic, garlic juice, seamine canola, munyu, munyu, munyu. mafuta, oregano.
Nguva yekutumira: Nov-09-2019